GLOSSARY TERMS

True bias is a cut made on an angle 45 degrees to the selvage. This direction allows for the most stretch. Bias refers to any line diagonal to the crosswise and lengthwise grains. Most bias pattern pieces are laid on the true bias; the grainline arrow and the pattern’s layout instructions will help you align your pattern pieces.

Also called bias tape, a bias cut strip used to bind or cover edges. Slightly stretchy, it sews neatly around curves. Can be purchased ready-made or cut from fabric.

A hemstitch used to join an edge to the inside of a garment. It is formed with cross-shaped stitches on either side of an edge.

A presser foot with a circular opening that doesn’t clamp down over the fabric and is used with dropped feed dogs for free-motion stitching or mending

Two machine needles attached to a single shaft that sews two parallel rows of stitches at once with two spools of thread and one bobbin. Sometimes called a twin needle.

Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.

Hand stitch used to smoothly join two layers of fabric-usually not always a seam. Also a decorative hand stitch.

Stitches works from the right side to pull a seam together invisibly. Stitches travel in fold fabric.

The orientation of the threads in woven fabric: lengthwise and crosswise. The lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage and is the warp; cross-grain threads cross the grain and are perpendicular to the selvage.

Hem allowance is the distance between the cutting line and the hemline. This allowance is folded inside the garment before it is sewn. Also called “hem depth,” it varies with the garment style and sewing technique.

Hemline is the lowest edge of the garment once the hem is sewn.

Made at 1/16-inch or 1/8-inch intervals through the side fold of the turn-under allowance. This technique hides the stitch in the fold along the edge.

A ladder stitch is used to join two folded edges of fabric. Stitches are made at right angles to the fabric, creating a ladder-like formation between the fabrics, which are tightened and rendered invisible.

A hand stitch that wraps around an edge like a spiral.

Shaped, heat resistant plastic, metal, or even a manila folder, used to create a smooth, crisp line or edge when pressing.

A vertical seam on blouses, dresses, jackets, or coats, usually positioned between a side seam and the center front and back, and passing over the bust apex.

Result of two pieces of fabric stitched together. Seamline is the line that you sew along, usually 5?8 inch in from the cutting line (outermost edge of the pattern piece that you cut along). Seam allowance is the distance between the cutting line and the seamline. This allowance is usually hidden inside the garment once it is sewn. In home sewing, the measurement is conventionally 5?8 inch, but may be as small as 1?4 inch or as wide as 1 inch. Seam finish- Any technique that finishes the raw edges of a seam.

A needle with a blunt tip and large oval-shaped eye made for decorative stitching with bulky threads or yarns.